Hong Kong is a cross between an anthill and a huge mall. You can spend all your time indoors or underground, shopping or walking. Coming from New York City, the land of one Gucci and three Burberry stores, I was couldn’t get over the sheer number of luxury retail stores. There is a Cartier and Ferragamo in ever shopping complex, which is in every mall, which also includes several restaurants and bars, which is often located on a floor higher than 99% of those in Manhattan.
Traces of colonialism remain (English signs, driving on the left, impeccably clean subways) and an expat said it’s the safest city—if you’re white. The food is generally subpar compared to NY. “Everything’s flown in,” boasted another expat, oblivious to the local, slow food movement popular elsewhere. In May, when we went, rainy season had started early so the air was hot, heavy, and humid. Yet, despite these observations, I want to return again.
Hollywood Road and the streets above and below it are packed with boutiques and some of the city’s best restaurants, including…
Mana! (92 Wellington Street): this tiny lunch spot (barely two tables inside and a couple outside) refers to itself as slow fast food, which means delicious organic flatbreads, salads, hummus, and juices—the perfect antidote to heavy Chinese food.
We stayed in Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon side, but regardless of where you stay, be sure to take a ride, take a ride on the Star Ferry.
Our hotel was walking distance from Loong Toh Yuen (Hullett House, 2A Canton Road): located in a former marine police headquarters (one of the four oldest surviving buildings in HK), choose the all you can eat dim sum option for elegant canto fare—they don’t look appetizing, but the “steamed rice rolls with dough stick” (above) are addictive!
And you can’t visiting HK, without a stop at Ozone…
Ozone (118/f, 1 Austin Road West): Asia’s highest bar, located on the 118th floor of the Ritz-Carlton, offers incredible views of Hong Kong. The décor is a little schizophrenic, but the rooftop is open, so be sure to go on a clear night (or you’ll have raindrops in your photo like me).