Tips from Dr. Allouche of Biologique Recherche

Wednesday / Feb 27 / 2013

Biologique Recherche
Fig Biologique Recherche

Know as the Hermès of skincare, Biologique Recherche was founded in 1978 by Yvan and Josette Allouche (a biologist and physiotherapist, respectively). Today, their son, Dr. Philippe Allouche, continues the tradition. At Biologique Recherche Ambassade de la Beauté, the company’s high-tech lab on the Champs-Élysées, scientific knowledge is combined with positive holistic ambiance—music is played 24/7, lights are kept low, and employees are told to go outside if they get in arguments lest any bad energy seep into the Biologique Recherche products.

Dr. Allouche is praised for his clinical “bio-lift” facials that, by applying pressure in certain areas and quickly patting the skin, sculpt and shape faces. Draining fluid and stimulating deep tissue and muscles builds cheekbones, eliminates double chins, opens eyes, and pumps lips. Available at luxury spas around the world, I recently tried the treatment here in NY at the Peninsula Spa. The results were dramatic—and stay tuned for a follow up post featuring a video of the facial.

During the course of the facial Dr. Allouche noted my skin’s superficial hydration, elasticity, pigmentation, and sebum and prescribed a customized regime. I have been using his prescribed products since January and will provide before and after photos to reveal whether these customized products are worth the hefty price tag (a 6-month tailor-made beauty regime retails for $12,500).

But first Dr. Allouche’s skincare rules everyone can follow—regardless of budget.

  1. Always apply face creams in an upwards direction and from the inner part of the face towards the outer part. “Why would you want to help gravity?”
  2. Never use steam or heat. “Steaming water on the face is a very old technique which has disappeared from the treatment protocols of serious brands in France and many other European countries. The steam provokes a release of heat shock proteins, signaling heat aggressive to the system. Simply put, heat is perceived as a real threat to the skin and will throw off the delicate balance.”
  3. Be careful about exfoliation. “The epidermis is the frontline of our immune system defending out body against any intruder. It is essential to keep the skin well hydrated, replenished with structural lipids responsible for what we call the “skin barrier.” Scraping, using lasers and peeling are not gentle on the skin and will most likely damage it. Exfoliation procedures are widely used in the US, but inexperienced professionals without specialist supervision can do more harm than good.”
  4. Never do extractions. “The sebaceous follicle is an integrated physiological unit, exchanging information not only with the central nervous system, but also with several endocrine glands, relaying hormonal reactions. It is the cornerstone in the protection of the skin. At Biologique Recherche, we prefer a progressive and respectful approach using daily soft exfoliating, protecting, moisturizing, sebum controlling and free radical scavenging with our cult product Lotion P50.”